Day Seventeen - Monday 6th April - Arkaroola Rocks and ranges: 4WDriving

We were all set for a leisurely morning before going on the 4WD tour at 1pm. We decided it was worth doing as many of the laundry and toilet discussions with our fellow travellers were very positive about it. However, all hell broke loose when Ewan received a phone call from Reception staff just after 8am saying "Where are you?" There had been some problem with the booking and, despite Jude Liz and I being present when the booking was made for 1pm, somehow we were booked for the 8am tour! All very weird. So we had to spring into action without all being showered breakfasted and approporiately dressed. We made it to Reception by 8.23am and piled into a troupie of our own. The rest of the group had already left in their troupie so we had one to ourselves.

Our driver Andrew was the same guy who took the Únder the Stars experience last night. His knowledge of local history, flora , fauna and most importantly, geology really enhanced our experience. He understood Grame's sense of humour and was very funny.

The photos tell the story of our 3 hour trip: climbing from gorges to peaks over very rough roads and very steep inclines. Remarkable views of many mountains and endless mountain ranges. It would be ridiculous for me to recount all of the information Andrew gave us. One of the issues that really resonated with me was the effect of the seasons and the total dependence on rain. The impact of droughts due to minimal or no rain over a number of years was clear. On one mountain the only vegetation is stands of dead native pines due to lack of rain over a number of years. On another slope there had been a fire 40 years ago, possibly due to lightning, and only now are there some green shoots reappearing on the trees! The numbers of yellow-footed wallabies that are endemic to this area dropped to 1500 after one serious drought.

Andrew described the original history of the development of these mountain ranges and it goes back 800 million years. As we went up and down the roads we could see layers of different rock and mountains made of quartz , granite, tillite, haemitite etc. Mawson, of Antarctic fame, was one of the first geologists to explore this area and the descendants of one of his colleagues, Spriggs, still own the Arkaroola Station. Attempts to mine radium were met with endless challenges because of the terrain, and also because Spriggs delibarately pointed the potential investors in the wrong direction as he wanted to preserve the environment.

We were following the other troupie up yet another steep hill, but at a distance, when they suddenly stopped and reversed to a flatter space. A puncture! There were plenty of able-bodied people on board so we left them to it and drove on.

We stopped a couple of times at Lookouts until we reached the highest one: the Silliers Lookout. To get there were were on a 30 degree incline: slightly terrifying! There was just enough space to get the cars to park and reverse so we could go back down. Andrew said they are supposed to be able to park six cars there but he didn't believe it and neither did we. Coffee, tea and muffins were served which was much appreciated. A couple of small bushes were used as 'lavar-trees'. All that bouncing around is a test for one's bladder! The 360 degree view was fabulous and slightly terrifying if you got too close to the edge.

Then we headed for home: slightly faster but just as rough a ride! I'm surprised to see that some of the photos I took while bouncing around were OK. Half of the time I couldn't actually see what I was taking so just had to hope. It was quite an experience that we won't forget! It had been windy all day and when we returned to the campsite our awning on the side of the caravan had come adrift on one side. After more problem-solving by Ewan, ably assisted by his apprentice Graeme, it was reassembled. Fortunately it had just popped out at one end, which maybe was a safety strategy. The wind is freezing so we're in for a cold night I think. And everything is covered in a layer of fine red dust: too bad if you think you are going to be pristine around here! Jude and Graeme have headed off for a walk as they can't sit still, and are in training for a big walk in July. The rest of us are happy to do little and investigate possible options for the rest of the trip. Arkaroola is as far as our planning went so there's plenty of options for the homeward trip. Today's gourmet dinner is spag bol and pasta. No salad as we have no fresh fruit and vegetables left at all, but the plan is to stock up tomorrow at Leigh Creek. your slightly rattled and jolted around correspondent Dianne PS See if you can find the Euros (wallaroos)